Field Notes

Dispatches from the trail.

Long-form essays, expedition reports, field guides, and conversations with guides — written from the routes, not the desk.

Personal

The long way back

I came to San José for a marathon and ended up in the acute ward — an endurance runner with a resting pulse of 38, having a heart attack with arteries that turned out to be perfectly clean. This is the night it began, told the only way I know how: slowly, and only what is true.

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Trail running

The Queen Stage, told slowly

Twenty-five kilometres from Providencia to Ranchos Tinamú — over a 1,910-metre ridge, down to La Chaqueta where Xinia's kitchen sits across the fields, through Piedras Blancas, across the Savegre in a basket you pull yourself, and up the last four kilometres to the lodge.

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